Review: Loren
A chic trattoria overlooking Palm West Beach…
Dubai diners are so spoilt for choice when it comes to restaurants, that each venue has to push their creativity to new bounds in order to stand out. It’s not enough to have a great menu anymore. It’s not even enough to offer brilliant views. Guests get excited about restaurants that offer the full package, from interiors to service, food, drinks, location; the list goes on.
Thankfully for Ristorante Loren – the chic Italian concept, which recently opened atop SAN Beach at Palm West Beach – many of these boxes are ticked.
The attention to detail is impressive, from gorgeous velvet menus with tiny doorknob handles to the fresh fish display, encased in marble and billowing with dry ice. It’s luxe without being pretentious.
From the aforementioned menu, the antipasti selection is indulgent and exciting. The fritto all’ Italiana (Dhs120) comprises five different tapas bites which, while not ideal for sharing, do offer an intriguing variety of flavours. A seahorse-shaped plate serves a potato croquette, a bucatini with truffle caio e pepe and ossobuco saffron arancini, giving a taste of what’s to come through authentic Italian flavours.
A special mention has to go to ravioli del plin alla genovese (Dhs125). These delicious pockets of juicy slow-cooked wagyu beef cheek are encased in al dente pasta pillows, before being drizzled with a heart-warming butter sage sauce and sauteed mushrooms. We would return for this dish alone.
Mains feature more slow-cooked wagyu beef cheek, this time served under a grissini dome. The guancia di wagyu (Dhs195) is both succulent and flavourful, dripping in bell pepper sauce and complemented by the crunchy dome. The presentation was a little sloppy but what it lacked in Instagrammability it made up for in taste. If you’re more of a pesce fan, the Scottish salmon arrosto (Dhs165) is a satisfying alternative. Beautifully pan-fried, the flaky fish paired well with its accompanying fregola risotto. But to really elevate the meal, add on some truffle mash potato (Dhs45) or beautifully crispy chunky fries (Dhs35).
The dessert menu hasn’t been overlooked at Loren. A selection of authentic Italian treats is available, including a traditional tiramisu (Dhs55), served with a chocolate ‘cigar’ in a large stone bowl. For something a little lighter, we recommend the coco bello Italiano (Dhs55). Served in a coconut shell, coconut mousse is layered with mango smoothie and topped with almond and vanilla crumble. Its creamy, crunchy and indulgent without leaving you ready to be rolled out the door.
Ristorante Loren, The Club, Palm West Beach, Sun to Thur noon to midnight, Fri & Sat noon to 1am. Tel: (0)4 557 8293. @ristorante.loren