Review: Summersalt by Kayto at Jumeirah Al Naseem

Refined beachfront dining with stunning Burj Al Arab views…

When Kayto opened as a pop-up at Jumeirah Al Naseem in 2019, it proved so popular that it became a permanent fixture. Now, three years later, the brand has added a seaside iteration to the beachfront, giving culinary prowess to the hotel’s upscale Summersalt beach club.

Now, alongside Summersalt, where guests recline on plush navy loungers dotted alongside the sugary sand, there’s a breezy alfresco restaurant. This is luxurious beachfront dining done right: a whitewashed deck is filled with woven chairs topped with plush cushions, the turquoise ocean views can be enjoyed from every seat in the restaurant, and chilled house beats are the perfect level to add atmosphere without being overpowering. If the rolling sea views weren’t wow-worthy enough, the perfectly framed Burj Al Arab is a majestic addition to the vistas. The aesthetic is perfectly in keeping with the five-star surroundings, a glamorous crowd catch up over sharing plates and glasses of perfectly chilled rosé, but it’s inviting without being stuffy.

Like the original, Summersalt by Kayto’s cuisine is inspired by classic Nikkei flavours, fusing Peruvian and Japanese dishes, but with a beachy twist. All dishes are designed to be shared, whether enjoyed as a sun-drenched lunch, or enjoying a romantic date night with an alfresco dinner under the stars.

A bowl of edamame (Dhs30) flaked with Maldon rock salt arrives soon after we sit down, and is the perfect snack to graze on as we peruse the menu. The beverage list is extensive and well-curated, with a full page of French wines on the first page, followed by world wines and a selection of sake. Wines by the bottle start from the mid-Dhs400, which is towards the more expensive side but not unreasonably so for the setting.

We share a tuna truffle ceviche (Dhs100), which may be small but is packed with flavour. From the signature rolls, a shrimp tempura with avocado (Dhs90) has an impossibly light batter encasing fresh bites of shrimp, slivers of avocado topping the fluffy sushi rice.

A much replicated Dubai dish is the Miso black cod (Dhs195), with only a handful of restaurants executing it with finesse and flavour. Summersalt by Kayto can now sit among those, with a sweet sticky miso glaze topping chunks of melt-in-the-mouth cod. Moving more towards the Peruvian influence, a slow cooked lamb shoulder (Dhs190) is braised for 36 hours, producing a tender cut of meat that pairs perfectly with creamy truffle mash and a mushroom escabeche. Our only complaint is that it’s slightly underseasoned.

While the whole meal is exceptional, the cheesecake brûlée with a zesty mandarin sorbet, (Dhs60), successfully eclipses it all and might be the best dessert we’ve eaten this year.

Verdict: Go for the views, stay for the vibe – and the cheesecake brûlée. This is the coolest new beachfront address in the city.